Namaste – Hello, good morning, good evening, thank you etc, etc, etc.
It started with a few movies, 2 curry’s and the best landing I’ve ever experienced on Kingfisher airlines flying to Delhi with our group of 8 Clare, Julia, Lisa, Hazel, Tracy, Will, Martin & myself.
We arrived in Delhi to a stifling 30 degrees, stinky smog cocktail of damp diesel, swirling dust, toxic chemicals, spicy sweat and sandalwood wraps, inching along an impossible slow queue of harassed foreigners while the screaming and jumping mosh-pit of porters all trying to carry our luggage for us.
Thankfully our tour guides Jane & Raoul met us and took us to an exotic hotel for lunch and to freshen up where we had another lovely curry for lunch.
Afterwards Julia & I broke free and went onto the streets to take in all the sites, take some photo's and soak up the environment of this frantic place. Everyone stopped us and wanted their photo taken, wanting spare rupees; their bloodshot pitiful eyes pierce your conscience.
We spent the afternoon visiting a mosque and then took a rickshaw through Old Delhi to visit the street markets where we flew around like kamikaze cans. Everyone drives with one finger on the horn and the soundtrack to the road is a chaotic symphony of honks and high pitched notes. The only thing that stopped everyone is the king of the road – the holy cow!
We then make our way to the Train station where it seems the whole of Delhi is here, we have to negotiate obstacles of bodies sleeping on the ground with a solitary blanket, stray dogs, luggage, and crowds of people all waiting for the overnight sleeper train to the north east. Think about the worst thing possible and you’re not even close. A single man walking up and down selling Chai - tea made with cinnamon, ginger & boiled milk with sugar.
We get to Dharamshala early in the morning. It is much colder here only 10 degrees and we’re all getting more excited with the prospect of having an audience with the Dalia Lama. After lunch, another curry we have a walk around and there’s a calm and peacefulness around coloured by the Tibetan monks dressed in burgundy robes.
There are Prayer Flags everywhere flying in the wind sending prayers out to the universe. We wonder around and soak it all up but there is so much to see. I wonder off and light a candle for those who are no longer with us. We then get to watch the monks debating and visit the Dalai Lama’s temple.
Om Mani Padme Hum ~ Tibetan Buddhists believe that saying the mantra (prayer), Om Mani Padme Hum, out loud or silently to oneself, invokes the powerful benevolent attention and blessings of Chenrezig, the embodiment of compassion.
The next day we head off to Bir to start our Trek at the Dream Adventure centre. We start a warm up at a Fort and at first I thought I am never going to do this! My legs felt stiff and tired after all the travelling, my asthma started kicking off and it was then that I decided I was going to be the tortoise for this trek.
Day bags and kit all packed and ready to go – we’re off on our first day!
18km of up, up and up the ascent was tough and relentless – I was just hoping for some let up when a few old ladies passed us in flip flops, carrying bundles of wood fire on their back, knitting socks! Put me in my place and spurred me on to dig a bit deeper and not be so pathetic. We have lunch at the top of this mountain pass and we all enjoy some rest and food but secretly we all want an ice cold beer and another curry!
We spend the rest of the afternoon getting to camp which is in the Uhl valley on the river bed, its ice cold at 5:30pm and -5 degrees, we head straight to the tent for some warm rum punch, sleeping blankets, thermals and hot water bottles. It was a long cold night!
Porridge for the next day to fuel us for the 17km up and down 3 ascents and passes. This was my hardest day, my asthma was bad and I fell down a hole and now have a beautiful black and blue derriere. We go through beautiful villages where they are harvesting and drying out the maize on their roofs, the children all greet us and we walk through each corner enjoying the smells and scenes of this self sufficient good life!
The next day was a long one 21km. I am getting the hang of this now, just want to keep going, we have a fantastic day going through villages, schools and end up in a hunters lodge which equals bed for the night and shower! Bliss.
The next day I had a rest, a bit of Delhi belly and it feels like I’ve lost half my body weight!
Our last day was 15km up and down, up and down and then to finish me off there was one hell of a steep down with a long drop, not good for a vertigo, asthmatic curvy 40 something year old! The local engineers were blasting some rocks to stabilise the river side and as I got to the ledge and closed my eyes the dynamite went off – S***, F*** etc!!
Trek over and party back at the Dream Adventure Centre, lanterns, and beers and clean clothes everyone happy and Clare’s birthday too.
Long drive back to the train station, again this was worse than before, and we had rubbish cabins, the whiff of vomit & urine coming from the toilets was the worse thing ever. Tried to get some sleep with my iPod on so as to drown out all the noise and hustle of everyone pushing past.
Once off the train another long journey of 5 hours driving to the Taj Mahal – I was worried about not going with my loved one but it was just a tourist attraction really and part of my tick list. Beautiful and symmetrical and of course the Princess Di photo opportunity! The surprising thing was that there were really no tourists, just lots of Indian coming to visit their own tourist attraction. I loved the Sari’s and beautiful colours and the kids all wanted to have their photo’s taken with us!!
Our last day in India was at a hotel which had a swimming pool and Clare and I spent the whole day by it getting some serious sun rays in and enjoying some R&R and catch up whilst the others went to a bird sanctuary. I think we both felt like caged birds and wanted some time out from the tour and instructions.
The best bit for me was on the way to the airport meeting an elephant along the road – good omen and what a way to finish this journey.
There was no internet and no real chance to do a blog so I am writing this now back at home enjoying my family and the homecoming I have had thinking about India, and how much I loved it, the people, its ethos and yes the curry!!
Thank you to everyone who has supported me, Joseph and the National Autistic Society, together we all made a difference!
Tracey
I would not change my autistic child for the world - but I would change the world for my autistic child
